Altitude
5126 m
Nuevos Horizontes refuge
≈ 4700 m
La Virgen → refuge
about 3 h
Refuge → summit
about 430 m
First ascent
1912
Difficulty
5/10
Why climb it
Four reasons to climb Iliniza Norte
01
A gateway to mountaineering
A mix of basic climbing and rocky trails. It is one of the best mountains for taking your first steps in mountaineering.
02
A cross on the summit and Iliniza Sur right in front of you
The final stretch reaches the summit cross, with a view of Iliniza Sur.
03
One day or two, your choice
In a single day (full day), on an 11.8 km circuit from La Virgen, or in two days, sleeping at the Nuevos Horizontes refuge.
04
Acclimatization for higher goals
Given its altitude, it is a good way to acclimatize before Cotopaxi or Chimborazo: it is the first summit of the 3 summits in 7 days program.
Who is it for? For anyone who wants to get started in mountaineering. Difficulty 5/10: good physical preparation and good hydration are required. Before departure, the guide checks the equipment and gives a technical briefing.
See the expedition
What makes it special
Rock, a cross and a view of Iliniza Sur
Inside the Ilinizas Ecological Reserve
Both mountains, Norte and Sur, lie inside this reserve.
Basic climbing on rock
The climb mixes rocky trails and sections of basic climbing up to the summit cross.
Iliniza Sur, right opposite
At 5248 m it is the higher of the two and much more technical: rocky terrain, glacier and crevasses.
A rock mountain, almost without snow
It stays snow-free almost all year, so crampons and an ice axe are not needed. Rain and strong winds are possible, though.
Two mountains joined by a saddle
Iliniza Norte and Iliniza Sur are joined by a saddle, a short distance from each other.
Its name
Why is it called Iliniza?
Its origin is not entirely clear. The most cited explanation translates it as “masculine hill”.
There is no single, definitive version among scholars: it is another of those questions the mountain has not answered.
Most-cited meaning
Iliniza
masculine hill
First to climb it
Who climbed it first
1880
Jean-Antoine and Louis Carrel
The Carrel guides, from Edward Whymper's expedition to Ecuador, make the first ascent of Iliniza Sur, the neighboring mountain.
1912
Nicolás Martínez and Alejandro Villavicencio
They make the first ascent of Iliniza Norte, the mountain in this guide.
How the climb works
What summit day is like
1
Machachi → La Virgen
Meeting with the team in Machachi, a quick equipment check and a technical briefing. Then a transfer to La Virgen, at 3900 m.
2
Hike to the refuge
About 3 hours of walking to the Nuevos Horizontes refuge, at about 4700 m.
3
Two days: dinner and rest
On the 2-day option, we settle into the refuge (bunk beds), have dinner and sleep a few hours. On the full day there is only a short rest.
4
Toward the summit cross
About 430 m of elevation gain from the refuge, on a rocky trail and basic climbing: 3 to 4 hours, depending on pace. On the 2-day option, departure is usually at 2 or 3 am.
5
The return
Descent to La Virgen and return to Machachi, where the activity ends. On the full day the descent is shorter: you do not come down the same way, but through a sandy slope.
Full day or 2 days
On the full day (a circuit of about 11.8 km from La Virgen with 1300 m of elevation gain, 6 to 7 hours) you climb and descend on the same day, with a shorter descent through a sandy slope. On the 2-day option you sleep at the refuge and reach the summit the next day, at your own pace.
The weather
There can be rain and strong winds and, in the worst case, thunderstorms or snowstorms. That is why the guide decides on the spot whether to continue up or head down.
Gear
What you need to climb
Provided by Greenstep
Technical equipment included
- Semi-rigid high-mountain boots
- Waterproof jacket and pants
- Gaiters
- Harness
- Carabiner
- Gloves
- Helmet
- Headlamp (batteries not included)
- 50 L backpack
On the 2-day option, the equipment also includes a sleeping bag rated for temperatures below 0 °C. Crampons and an ice axe are not used.
You bring
Essentials
- Base layer (thermal Lycra)
- Mid layer (fleece or down)
- Base-layer gloves
- Double socks: one compression pair and one merino wool pair
- Summit daypack (30 L maximum)
- Hydration
- Energy bars or nuts
- Sunscreen
- UV-protection glasses
- Buff, balaclava or cap (not cotton)
- Trekking shoes Optional: you can use the high-mountain boots we already include
The essentials are what you bring; they are not included. On the full day, also bring your own snack for the day: we do not include snacks or refreshments. Without these items the summit climb cannot take place.
Refuge
The Nuevos Horizontes refuge
It is the midpoint of the expedition. On the full day there is a short rest here before the summit; on the 2-day option you have dinner and sleep here.
Altitude
≈ 4700 m
From La Virgen
about 3 h
To the summit
430 m · 3 a 4 h
How you sleep
In bunk beds, in shared rooms. On the 2-day option we include a sleeping bag rated for temperatures below 0 °C, plus dinner, breakfast and hot drinks.
Getting there
Getting to the refuge
- Quito → Machachi, the expedition's meeting and departure point: about 1 h 30 min by vehicle.
- Entry checkpoint of the Ilinizas Ecological Reserve (the entry permit is included in the expedition).
- Vehicle transfer to La Virgen, at 3900 m: about 30 minutes from the park checkpoint.
- Hike of about 3 hours to the Nuevos Horizontes refuge, at about 4700 m.
- From the refuge, about 430 m of elevation gain to the summit, at 5126 m (3 to 4 hours, depending on pace).
Altitude profile (visual reference from 3800 m)
Summit
5126 m
+ 430 m
Refuge
≈ 4700 m
+ ≈ 800 m · about 3 h
La Virgen
3900 m
The way to the refuge is a mountain trail. Beyond that, the basic climbing and the altitude call for a professional guide and equipment: that is why the expedition includes both.
See the expeditionBefore you go
Best season and preparation
Best season
You can climb all year round: there is no specific season. From June to September it tends to be windier and colder. Rain and strong winds are possible throughout the year.
How to prepare
Good physical preparation and good hydration. It is one of the best mountains for getting started in mountaineering and the first one in the 3 summits in 7 days program.
See 3 summits in 7 daysFrequently asked questions
What people ask us most
How hard is it to climb Iliniza Norte?
On our scale, 5/10. It mixes basic climbing and rocky trails up to the summit cross. Good physical preparation and good hydration are required; before departure, the guide checks the equipment and gives a technical briefing.
Can it be done in a single day?
Yes. On the full-day option you do a circuit of about 11.8 km from La Virgen with 1300 m of elevation gain, which takes 6 to 7 hours depending on the group's pace. You can also do it in two days, sleeping at the refuge.
What is included?
Professional guide (at least 1 for every 2 participants), transport, mountain equipment and entry permit to the reserve. On the 2-day option, also accommodation at the Nuevos Horizontes refuge, dinner, breakfast and hot drinks. We do not include snacks or refreshments.
Is it good for getting started in mountaineering?
Yes: it is one of the best mountains to start with. It mixes basic climbing and rocky trails up to the summit cross.
Can you see Iliniza Sur from the summit?
Yes. From the summit cross there is a view of Iliniza Sur.
Do I need crampons and an ice axe?
No. It is a rock mountain that stays snow-free almost all year. That said, rain and strong winds are possible and, in the worst case, thunderstorms or snowstorms.
How do you sleep at the refuge?
In bunk beds, in shared rooms. On the 2-day option we include a sleeping bag rated for temperatures below 0 °C.
How high is the refuge?
At about 4700 m. From La Virgen it takes about 3 hours to walk there.
Next step
Ready to climb Iliniza Norte?
A Greenstep advisor will help you on WhatsApp. They can adjust the program, dates and destination to what you need.
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