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Roped-up mountaineer in front of an ice wall on Antisana

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Ecuador · Technical glaciated peak

Antisana

Everything you need to know before climbing one of the most technical snow-capped peaks in Ecuador: its name, its history, the camp, the gear and what this mountain demands.

5758 m Difficulty 8/10 2 days / 1 night · camping
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Altitude

5758 m

Camping area

4800 m

Elevation gain to the summit

about 960 m

Climbing time

about 7 h

First ascent

1880

Difficulty

8/10

Why climb it

Four reasons to climb Antisana

01

One of the most technical peaks in the country

Between the provinces of Napo and Pichincha, it is a mountain to test your experience on snow and ice.

02

Technical ice axes for a demanding glacier

Because of the technique it demands, the equipment includes technical ice axes. It is a climb for those who already master the basics.

03

Camping at 4800 m, deep in the high mountains

You sleep in a tent at 4800 m and set out in the early morning: two days and one night from Machachi.

04

A landscape of páramo, glacier and condors

The volcano lies inside Antisana National Park, habitat of the Andean condor. Its meltwater supplies water to Quito.

Who is it for? For mountaineers with previous experience on snow and ice. Not recommended for beginners: if you are unsure, ask a Greenstep team member which mountain suits you first.

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The Antisana glacier with clouds, seen from the dark edge of a crater

What makes it special

A giant of ice and páramo

Ecuador's fourth-highest peak

At 5758 m, only Chimborazo, Cotopaxi and Cayambe are higher.

A potentially active volcano

It formed on the remains of an ancient caldera and is now covered in glaciers. Its last recorded eruption was around 1801-1802.

A glacier that supplies water to Quito

The volcano's meltwater and páramos are one of the capital's main sources of drinking water.

Antisana National Park

Its surroundings protect páramos, lakes and glaciers, and are the habitat of the Andean condor.

Its name

Why is it called Antisana?

According to several sources, the name comes from Cañari and can be translated as “lamb” or “dark mountain”.

As with other mountains in the country, there is no single, definitive explanation: it is one of those questions the mountain has not yet answered.

Cañari

Antisana

lamb or dark mountain

First to climb it

Who climbed it first

1802

Alexander von Humboldt

The German naturalist tries to climb the volcano but does not reach the summit.

1880

Edward Whymper, Jean-Antoine and Louis Carrel

The British mountaineer and his Italian guides make the first ascent in March 1880 and reach the summit.

Greenstep rope team on the Antisana glacier, above the clouds
A Greenstep rope team on the glacier, above the clouds.

How the climb works

What summit day is like

  1. 1

    Machachi → Píntag

    We meet in Machachi at the time agreed with the guide team and set out for Píntag.

  2. 2

    Park checkpoint and camping area

    We continue to the park checkpoint. Once the entry process is done, we head to the camping area, at 4800 m, where we set up the tents.

  3. 3

    Technical briefing and dinner

    Technical briefing on how to use the equipment, then dinner. You bring your own food and we cook it on the camping stoves we provide. Then, rest.

  4. 4

    Early morning, the summit

    We start the climb: about 960 m of elevation gain from the camp, with a climbing time of about 7 hours, with crampons and technical ice axes.

  5. 5

    The return

    After the summit we return to camp, break camp and head back to Machachi.

Roped-up mountaineer climbing toward a wall of seracs on Antisana

Why in the early morning?

We set out in the early morning because the snow is firmer, so we get back down before the sun softens the glacier.

The departure time

It is agreed in advance with the guide team. Times are approximate.

Gear

What you need to climb

Provided by Greenstep

Technical and camping equipment included

  • Semi-rigid high-mountain boots
  • Waterproof jacket and pants
  • Gaiters
  • Crampons
  • Harness
  • Carabiner
  • Gloves
  • Helmet
  • Headlamp (batteries not included)
  • Technical ice axes (2)
  • Sleeping bag rated for temperatures below 0 °C
  • 50 L backpack
  • Shared camping tents
  • Sleeping pad
  • Camping stoves

You bring

Essentials

  • Base layer (thermal Lycra)
  • Mid layer (fleece or down)
  • Base-layer gloves
  • Double socks: one compression pair and one merino wool pair
  • Summit daypack (30 L maximum)
  • Hydration
  • Energy bars or nuts
  • Sunscreen
  • UV-protection glasses
  • Buff, balaclava or cap (not cotton)
  • Food for your dinner and breakfast
  • Trekking shoes Optional: you can use the high-mountain boots we already include

The essentials are what you bring; they are not included. Food is not included: you bring it and it is cooked on the camping stoves we provide. Without these items the summit climb cannot take place.

Camp

The camping area, at 4800 m

It is the base of the expedition: this is where the tents are set up, the technical briefing is given, dinner is eaten and you rest for a few hours before heading to the summit.

Camp altitude

4800 m

To the summit

960 m · about 7 h

How you sleep

In shared tents, with a sleeping pad and a sleeping bag rated for temperatures below 0 °C.

How you cook

With the camping stoves we provide. You bring the food for dinner and breakfast.

Getting there

Getting to the camping area

  1. Machachi, the expedition's meeting and departure point. We can also arrange transport from other cities, at an additional cost.
  2. Vehicle transfer via Píntag to the park checkpoint (the entry permit is included in the expedition). The transfer from Machachi takes about 2 hours 30 minutes.
  3. Camping area, at 4800 m: we set up the tents, have dinner and rest.
  4. In the early morning, summit climb, at 5758 m: about 960 m of elevation gain and about 7 hours.

Altitude profile (visual reference from 4400 m)

Summit

5758 m

+ 960 m · about 7 h

Camp

4800 m

From the camp, the glacier demands a professional guide, equipment and experience: that is why the expedition includes both.

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Before you go

Best season and preparation

Best season

You can climb all year round: there is no specific season. From June to September it tends to be windier and colder.

How to prepare

Previous experience on snow and ice, good physical fitness and good hydration are required. Good preparation is to climb another snow-capped peak first, such as Cotopaxi.

See the Cotopaxi guide

Frequently asked questions

What people ask us most

How hard is it to climb Antisana?

On our scale, 8/10: it is one of the most technical mountains in the country and is not recommended for beginners. It is about 960 m of elevation gain from the camp, in about 7 hours, with crampons and technical ice axes.

How long does the expedition last?

Two days and one night: departure from Machachi, camping at 4800 m, early-morning climb, and return to camp and to Machachi.

What is included?

Professional guide (at least 1 for every 2 participants), transport, mountain equipment, shared camping tents, sleeping pads, entry permit and camping stoves. Food is not included.

Do I need previous experience?

Yes. Because of its technical nature, Antisana is not recommended for beginners: it is best to have climbed other snow-capped peaks before and to have good physical fitness.

How high is the camp and how long does it take to get there?

At 4800 m. The transfer from Machachi takes about 2 hours 30 minutes. From the camp there are about 960 m of elevation gain to the summit.

Next step

Ready to climb Antisana?

A Greenstep advisor will help you on WhatsApp. They can adjust the program, dates and destination to what you need.

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